The former Makeup Department Supervisor for LOST, Emily Katz, knows a thing or two about managing humid environments like Hawaii—all with the added complexity of shooting in HD. She loves the natural finish of Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant Tinted SPF 33 ($54). “I use this daily, and it lasts through heat, moisture, and water,” says Katz. “It is sheer with minimal coverage, but it’s enough to even out skin tone, and never looks like foundation.” She suggests blotting with a tissue before applying the rest of your makeup to avoid any extra shine.
Katz is also a fan of Kate Somerville Illumikate CC Cream ($48). “It holds on well and comes in a number of colors,” she says. Don’t be afraid if it looks orange at first. “I find it usually fades and blends into the skin.” Two more favorites: Estee Lauder DayWear Anti-oxidant Beauty Benefit Cream SPF 35 ($40), and It Cosmetics Anti-aging Physical SPF 50 CC Cream ($34.68)
For women of color, Katz recommends the light, oil-free BlackUp CC Cream ($39.50), which also boasts sebum-fighting qualities. “BlackUp also has a ‘100% no ashy finish’ guarantee. This is awesome for women of color, because ingredients like titanium oxide—which are used to make products more opaque and are frequently used as non-chemical sunblocks—create a greyish cast in many CC creams and sunscreens.”
This is a true story. A coworker was getting repeatedly passed over for management positions, even though she was the most qualified person in her department. She wore no makeup, thinking her skills were strong enough to garner the recognition she deserved. After a number of months losing out to others on the ladder, it was suggested she try wearing lipstick and eyeliner daily. Simple enough.
Within a month, she was petitioned for promotion, being told that she “stood out.” That’s right: She didn’t stand out until she made herself be seen. You enter a room and, in nanoseconds, you are subliminally judged by how you look, before you even speak. In a fiercely competitive world, looks matter. Although most wish they didn’t, the truth is—they do.
These days, especially for business professionals, it’s essential to have a look that projects a well-finished image. Business clients need to ensure they have an edge to their game by looking their most polished.
Some clients will go through a transformation from a certain business image to one that is totally different. Think about Lady Gaga, Madonna and any of the celebrities who have gone through an image change.
Although this may be an extreme example, for them, continually generating more interest with their appearance drives their bottom line. Although most clients don’t necessarily want to go into another dimension shifting their image, for traditional business clients who either want or need to enhance their look, skin care professionals have a lot to offer.
What can you do as a skin care professional and spa owner to support clients in creating a look that speaks success? Plenty—for both women and men.
Women often become accustomed to having the same hairstyle and wearing the same makeup for years. They often do so because, not surprisingly, it’s been working for them—it’s both familiar and easy. In truth, that familiar and easy look may not be supporting them any longer.
It’s crucial for women in business to embrace a look that projects a modern—not trendy— professional image, and manage to do so easily and rapidly. The major complaint from most busy women, professionals and moms is how long it takes to get ready in the morning. There is too much going on in life that seems to matter more. This conviction requires skin care professionals to reassure clients and show them that there are ways to look great in less time than previously imagined.
Maintenance appointments can seem tough to list as a priority and keep on a schedule, so reinforce how critical it is to do so. Some clients wear either too much makeup or none at all. Many women learned how to apply makeup as teenagers, and haven’t had a lesson or update since. It’s not the same face!
Frequently, at this point, female clients often decide to give up and no longer wear makeup. Let’s make it a point to help these clients. Do they have great skin? Is it simply a lack of time or is it a lack of knowledge? Where can skin care professionals help? Many women feel reduced to wearing only lipstick and mascara. That’s all they think they have time for or all they feel safe enough applying successfully. Some ideas to help open up a new world of makeup and enhance clients’ appearances include the following.
Teach them. Performing a makeup service is a great start and lessons can be even better, because clients are being empowered to develop the skills to care for themselves on a daily basis so they look and feel great.
As seasons change, schedule makeup update appointments to provide little tweaks to keep the look up-to-date. Demonstrate a quick makeup application so she’s out the door in the morning. Clients may need to be educated to the fact that makeup now is available in many different formulations than even five years ago. There are microweight products that help enhance the complexion without feeling makeup-y. They also don’t take long to apply and often last for hours.
Introduce multitasking makeup. Multitasking products are one of the key answers for busy women. Make sure these types of products have a presence in your retail area. Always keep team members in a potential sales position by offering the products that are critically needed without burdening the spa with too much inventory. This is crucial not only for sales, but also for educational purposes.
If makeup services are offered, have everything that was applied on hand so clients can purchase them straightaway—this helps her make that purchase. It seems obvious; however, if the spa doesn’t have a selection of makeup, this frustrates clients, because they now have to add shopping for yet another item to their to-do lists.
Professional skin care and spa services are very important for men. They are beginning to realize that they may need more than just a shave and a haircut. Some of your male clients may be well-dressed, but haven’t given a second thought to their faces, beyond shaving and a face wash in the shower. Many guys are starting to step up in order to make a major shift in their appearances, and it’s often small things that make a big difference.
More and more men are paying attention to grooming, getting manicures, pedicures, facials, brow and back waxing, and other services that address anti-aging. In the current competitive business climate, it is essential to help them achieve every gain possible.
Do you target men in your advertising efforts? Have you created an environment in your facility that feels comfortable to guys?
Guide them to create a sharp image so they can step out into the world, no matter what service they are initially seeking. Some ideas to help get them started include the following.
Style facial hair. Trim beards and sideburns in shapes that are flattering to his face.
Provide and teach nose, ear hair and brow trimming. Trim nose and ear hair during services for a small added charge, and provide tools in the retail area that will allow them to do this at home, because there’s no other way to avoid this unsightly hair.
That’s a small thing that makes a big difference. Even younger guys often miss the fact that it’s time to trim it up. In business, it’s extremely important to eliminate any distractions that take away from a person’s professional image. A great way to enhance mens’ facial appearance is by brow trimming. When offering this service, be sure not to feminize the brows; just rid them of distracting excess or length.
Offer back waxing. Back waxing for men is rapidly gaining popularity, as is trimming—not eliminating—chest hair.
Perform mini facials. If hair services are offered, consider also offering mini facials during the service. It adds that extra boost, helping men know that they look better and more vibrant. When clients look good, they know it and act accordingly, with more confidence—a reinforced level of “I’m ready to take on the world.”
BRING it on! It is imperative to help clients step up their game now—today’s competitive world shows no signs of moving away from the value it puts on the visual. Whatever you do and whatever niche you find, it is important to remember that women and men, more often than not, want to look like groomed, polished professionals. An upscaled look offers panache, and your guidance may be the touchstone to help them bring it on, resulting in a loyal client and quality referrals.
One of my all-time favorite TV shows? LOST. So I'm super excited to bring you my interview today with the fabulous makeup artist behind the series, the one and only Emily Katz! Emily is fascinating and super knowledgeable -- read on to discover how she first got involved in the makeup industry, the lip product she couldn't live without on the LOST set, and so much more.
Can you tell me a bit about yourself?
Originally from the East Coast, and grew up all across America, from NY to Hawaii! I've trained in the fine arts (predominately painting and sculpture) since I was a child.
How did you first become interested in beauty, and what led you to become a makeup artist?
As a watercolorist, the esthetics of beauty have always been a large part of who I am.
My interest in the world of fashion, beauty and makeup was invigorated from an international modeling career (runway back in the day). And I was a ballet and modern dancer, so stage makeup was something with which I was already familiar from childhood. Looking back, it's all a convergence of a natural evolution toward doing makeup for film and TV. I do have to say that it was never "the plan," unlike many now who focus on MakeUp as a career. For me, it was serendipity.
I had actually planned to be either a medical specialist (MD in Neurosciences) or a famous painter ... yikes, big dreams, I was in pre-med track and the arts ... needless to say the artist side of my nature overwhelmed the science, however I still hold a rapt interest in the science of the human body, which has actually assisted me in some of the effects I've needed to accomplish for jobs that are realistic. I've seen much of the real thing so I have a very lucid point of reference. The painting theme has been actualized on some level -- I get to paint people as my canvas for a living. It's pretty remarkable. I feel very blessed to be able to pursue and utilize these abilities.
You were the makeup artist for one of my favorite shows of all time, LOST. What can you tell me about the experience of working on such a game-changing show?
LOST was an amazing experience, and truly an iconic television moment. I'm honored to have been a part of what became woven into the fabric of society at the time.
The challenges of working on LOST were many, some physical ... if the actors were seen up on top of the mountain ledge, guess what? So were we! Along with the physicality of the show, there was the need to create makeups that were uber-durable under some of the most trying climatic conditions, plus the network wanted the women to still be beautiful and appear as if they had no makeup on at all. In fact, most of them had makeup on any bit of skin that was exposed. There was a crew of some wonderfully talented people who helped enact all the makeup designs.
Sunscreen, bug spray, fake dirt, tan, sunburn, often blood, bruises, not to forget the sweat ... sprayed on or self-generated ... and how to make all those layers appear as if there was absolutely NO makeup on anyone! The focus was always on how to keep the skin looking like it was solely that -- naked skin, even though it wasn't.
Another challenge was keeping the actresses' skin as impeccably beautiful as possible. So a knowledge of skincare and how to deal with all kinds of odd things the tropical climate keep throwing at us was imperative! We faced numerous challenges that have deeply added to my repertoire of experience. My lord, I sure understand sunscreens and compositional elements of products on a whole new level. It was about how to find products or help actually create them, that would stay on for the duration of a shooting day.
What were some of your tips and tricks on the set of LOST to keep the actors looking so great even under the sun for so many hours a day?
High SPF sunscreens are paramount to ensuring actors didn't change color in the midst of the shooting schedule, or get burned. I know there is some controversy in certain circles about the benefits/negatives of sunscreen. Since the jury's still out, I recommend everyone, no matter what their genetic background, wear sunscreen (particularly in the sub
There are a number of excellent products out now that cling to the skin without feeling heavy or "icky," that do not turn ghastly white or blue. It was truly a winnowing process to find which ones did or did not work out for on camera. Someone's favorite might have gone white, or run in the eyes when hammered with the water/sweat sprays ... all kinds of elements you don't need to think about in the course of normal life that had to be carefully considered on the show.
But, the answer to the question remains: wear a daily sunscreen/moisturizer. No matter where you live! It's the SPF that may vary. I also want to add that although we're told there is evidence that no higher than a certain number of SPF is effective, truly I have seen before my eyes the results that a very high SPF (like a 90) have over, let's say a 30, through the course of a day. I defer to what my experience has shown me!
So that the makeups stay intact and not disintegrate, blot papers help mitigate oiliness and sheen in the wrong places, while maintaining the very fresh and immediate look that LOST became known for.
Mascaras were held in place, even in the pouring rain and salt water, with Benefit SheLac, one of my standard turn-to products. Even waterproof-alone mascara would descend in the heat and humidity, but with the addition of Shelac, it clung where it was supposed to for hours.
We used ChapStick to keep lips from drying out (counterintuitive to what would happen on a deserted island -- they still had to look good!). The Moisturising Chapstick isn't waxy, same goes for the Neutrogena lip balm. Neither impact a makeup by imparting a sheen to the lips so it's very effective in looking utterly natural. Sometimes the good old standard is just the best thing!
(Editor's note: If you're curious about the various products Emily used, here's a list of some of her favorites from her time on the show!)
Neutrogena Age Shield Sunblock FACE SPF 90
Dry Touch spf 55, Sport 45 ...we went through boatloads of this
Jan Marini Sunscreen, Transformation Creme, transformation eye creme
PCA face and Body sunscreen
Derma Doctor Face and Body Shield sunscreen
Anthelios SPF 50, 60 and tinted
Jurlique sun lotion spf 30, Silk Dust powder
B Kamins bio Maple lipbalm, Bio Maple body lotion
Chapstick (all of them, especially Moisturizing and flavored)
La Mer The Concentrate (truly amazing for healing scars!! it works!!!)
La Mer hand creme and Moisturizing Lotion
Dermalogica Active Moisture Calming Cleanser, Special Cleansing Gel, Ceramide Eye Gel
Mario Badescu Enzyme Cleansing Gel (takes off even the fake tan, dirt, sweat, and didn't irritate even sensitive skin. It's fab), Wheat Germ Body Lotion
Benefit SheLac, Some Kinda Gorgeous foundation, Benetint, Posie tint, lipsticks
M.A.C Face and Body Makeup, Matte Bronzer, eyeshadows (often used as brow color), lip colors
L'Oreal Voluminous mascara
Chanel Nude and Natural lip pencils, pressed powder
Clinique lip pencils, eyeliners, Teddy shadow quad, many other colors, Shy and Rosy creme blushes, spray on sunscreen, SPF 50 body sunscreen, line smoothing concealers
Cargo Matte Bronzer, blushes, liglosses, Sand pencil, lipsticks
Dior eyeshadows, bases, mascaras
Estee Lauder foundations, blushes (especially Rose, Peach and Plum Nuances) and creme blushes, Illusionist waterproof mascara (unfortunately discontinued), lipsticks
Bobbi Brown Bronzing powder, blush, lip, pencils
Stila Convertible color, Sport Flash cheek color
Cetaphil cleansers and lotions
What are your top makeup essentials?
Jan Marini Sunscreen -- usually tinted
Cargo bronzer in Matte Medium
Cargo JetLag concealer
Dior, Clinique, Estee Lauder lipsticks and glosses
Chapstick or Neutrogena lipbalm -- always with me!!!
Estee Lauder ColorStay eyeliner
What are your top 3 makeup tips?
1) Good skin is the basis of everything. Take care of yourself, cleanse, protect, moisturize, antioxidant, peels, microdermabrasion -- whatever you need to do. The power of great skin cannot be underestimated, and there's a lot that can be done to bring it right if it's a bit troubled.
2) USE SUNSCREEN! I like multitask products, so a tinted sunscreen really works for me
BLOT instead of powdering for touchups. It will diminish the possible cake-iness that can build up through the day. If you love a totally matte finish, blot, then powder.
3) BLEND EDGES. Always make sure the edges of your foundation (which must match your skin!) blend into your neck under the jawline, and make sure your blush is not a big stripe. Feather those edges. Refer to make up sponges to help blend.
Being a makeup artist must be fun -- but what do you do in your spare time?
I paint, draw, read copiously and always have a novel that I'm reading -- sometimes a couple simultaneously. I also am a contributing writer to Skin,Inc. (spa and skincare) Magazine, and give private lessons and seminars. There's always something I'm interested in, and I have a great family. I truly am never bored.
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Awhile back, I featured makeup artist Emily Katz. You may recognize her name from such shows as The Nine Lives of Chloe King and -- one of my all-time favorites -- LOST. Well, now she's the makeup supervisor for Charlie Sheen's new(ish) show, Anger Management! Read on for tons of information from Emily, including her go-to products on set, what shooting in HD means for makeup artistry, and so much more.
You're the makeup supervisor for Anger Management, starring Charlie Sheen and Selma Blair. What has the process been like to create looks for the characters?
It's so energizing and exciting to create looks for characters on a show, particularly if they are just being birthed. My good friend, and an amazing artist, Gabriel Solan, is Charlie's makeup man, who invited me to do the show with him. I design (and do almost all of) the makeup looks for the actresses and some of the guys! A great deal of the process is collaborative. We individually discuss each look and style of character, what they envision, what the executive producer envisions and how I see it all coming into being, with my own spin on it. A cool thing is that I can do much more stylized, on-trend makeup for this show than, say, LOST's island look.
What have been your go-to products on set?
There are a lot of them! So I'll attempt to narrow it down. We have a big cast, and so many different needs and preferences.
Chantecaille Future Skin Foundation is brilliant. Looks natural, can build up coverage, I love it.
One of my all-time go-to products is Benefit Some Kind-A Gorgeous -- it can be really sheered out or built up for a light medium coverage, works for so many people and they've expanded the color range. I used it regularly on LOST for that island "no makeup" look AND for the "in reality in the city" polished finish.
I also am a fan of Make Up For Ever's HD line. I use their HD Microfinish Powder.
I use plenty of CARGO products. I find their OneBase, Blu-Ray High Definition Mattifierand bronzers staple go-to's in my kit.
Bobbi Brown's extensive line of color foundations is terrific so we use plenty of those as well. I have their foundation palette and it gets used regularly. Always have one.
NARS The Multiple is ever a favorite, and I'm particularly fond of G-Spot this year. Portofino, Orgasm and Malibu are perennial faves.
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Cream Blush in Honey, Eminence Bronzer in Chai Berry, Estee Lauder Signature Silky Powder Blush in Sensuous Rose are high on my list. L'Oreal One Sweep Sculpting Blush Duo comes in really handy for popping cheeks and giving that extra bit of definition under cheekbones or under the jawline without looking too dark or false.
I regularly use Chanel eyeshadow in Eclosion, Rose de Mai and Tiger Lily. YSL and Dior 5-shadow combos are a standard of excellence -- I use too many of them to name! Estee Lauder makes an amazing dark dark brown shadow, Mink, and I love it for depth without being black. Sephora has some great waterproof eyeliner pencils I recently have become very attached to -- they stay on and don't drip!
Lastly, I could go on about lipsticks, always my favorite products. I use everyone's line it would seem. My personal favorite currently is Chanel Rouge Double Intensite Ultra Wear Lip Colour. It's a longwear lipstick that doesn't make your lips feel weird or cakey or dry, color stays on. I actually layer a Stila Lip Glaze over it after the initial setting period (about a minute) on top of the gloss that goes over the base color.
How do you prep and prime the actors' skin? Any specific regimen for keeping their skin in good shape before and after all the makeup is applied?
Skincare is the absolute fundamental of makeup. It is the canvas for the art, and having a background in skincare, I am very much in tune with effective products for a wide variance of skin types. Because we are under such heavy time constraints in readying actors, I always ask them to come in with clean skin. We can moisturize when they're in the chair. And at the end of the day, we offer cleanup products. My favorite quick cleaner-upper is a microfiber washcloth with warm water. Mario Bedescu Enzyme Cleansing Gel has been a favorite since LOST.
I am an aficionado of Jan Marini's line, and have seen some amazing results in a matter of days especially with the Transformation Face Cream.
Also, I use a lot of the following products:
Dermalogica Active Moist and Skin Smoothing Cream
Mario Badescu Oil Free Moisturizer
La Mer Creme de la Mer, The Moisturizing Gel Cream and The Moisturizing Lotion (and they make a divine body lotion)
Cetaphil Cleanser and Moisturizing Lotion (keeping it simple sometimes is best)
Pevonica creams, especially their Ligne Yeux "C" Evolutive Eye Gel and Eye Cream
How does HD change how you're thinking about the makeup for the various characters, and are there any products you've used specifically for HD purposes?
HD is really a determining factor in what we apply to mitigate shine, which as it turns out, can be quite intense on camera but not to the eye. And, people speak of the detail with the pores and wrinkles. It is also very true that too much makeup (foundation, powders, cakey concealers) reads as makeup-y on camera and looks, well, pretty awful. I go for coverage that's just enough to perfect, and not too much that would read on camera. And hope the lighting is friendly!
The cameras pick up more information than the eye can actually see, which makes it especially important to not overdo, yet achieve the smooth perfect beauty we all strive for and expect to see on a show.
Antishine/mattifiers are a big kit staple. We use a lot of CARGO Blu-Ray High Definition Mattifier, Origins Zero Oil, M.A.C mattifier and YSL Top Secrets Pore Refining Skincare Brush. I like the clear silicone-based ones for darker skin as they don't ash up, and don't change the color of the makeup.
It depends on the skin type, color and also what I call glassiness -- some people have very small-pored reflective skin and powder does nothing to abate the shine, so we used the aforementioned. (Men too -- there are plenty of them on the show as well!) For some of the women, blotting film and light powdering is enough.
Because the cameras we use are so defined, I find the products that have light reflective qualities, like Laura Mercier Secret Brightening Powder, help to eliminate the appearance of dark circles and unwanted dimension.
When the bigger guns are needed (and that can be often), I turn to cream concealers like Benefit Boi-ing. I always am on the lookout for new concealers (new products that work in general!) and a few more are in the testing stage for me now.