Makeup artist Emily Katz is mishpocheh, and I’m sure we’ll find out that we’re actually related one day. The makeup maven extraordinaire, formerly of LOST and The Nine Lives of Chloe King fame, has landed a new gig as makeup artist forAnger Management, the new show starring Charlie Sheen, Selma Blair and Shawnee Smith on FX. It starts June 28 at 9pm, so tune in! In the meantime, I caught up with Emily in LA recently and found out everything about how she scored this gig to the products she uses on the show. Check out the Q&A below.
Beauty Blogging Junkie: How did you score this gig?
Emily Katz: Gabriel Solana, my dear friend and Charlie Sheen’s makeup man for about 20 years asked me to do this with him. I was honored and delighted! We’ve been wanting to work together again since we did some age makeups for the feature Big Fish in Alabama!
BBJ: What’s the experience been like?
EK: Unexpectedly wonderful. The entire cast and crew are terrific, and it’s actually been one of the most fun and -busiest-highlights of my career. I’m from the episodic drama world, so a sitcom was a different animal for me, it is hilarious, and just delighted to be a part of it.
BBJ: What skin care products are you using on set?
EK: Big cast–lots of products! To begin with, as you know I am a skincare aficianado. Read that junkie, if you will. So to start with the best canvas possible, I always encourage actresses/actors to investigate skincare that works for them. To that end, we had a corral of products! Jan Marini’s skincare line became a big favorite for us, I really noticed transformations in the actresses’ skins from her Transformation Cream. Literally within days. And I might add that many of my clients and friends I have introduced it to have had remarkable, visible results.
We also used as ever, La Mer moisturizer, Lip Balm, and lots of the Hand Treatment Cream; Mario Badescu’s oil free moisturizer ( comes w/an spf 30 version,too), the ubiquitous Pink Lotion for blemishes; Boscia’s Willow Bark blemish treatment, Dickinson’s Original Witch Hazel Oil Controlling Towelettes to prep/cleanse for some, (guys like it!) Dermalogica Active Moist and Skin Smoothing Creams, and Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion–among others! And not to be forgotten, a trailer staple: Boiron homeopathic Arnica and Calendula creams, for bumps and bruise. Arnica for burns and the like–calendula. Totally natural, works like a charm
BBJ: What about makeup?
EK: And for the makeup–Chantecaille’s Future Skin creates a beautiful and featherweight base, covers beautifully without looking makeup-y. Additionally: Estee Lauder and Clinique bases-Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer, Cargo One Base, Elizabeth Arden cream base, L’Oreal Paris True Match oil free, makeup forever HD, loads of Bobbi Brown! I like them all.
I prefer sheerer bases to a heavy cover. I still have the vision that skin should be beautiful, not just covered so I strive to use foundations that create that look. For the leading ladies I used Laura Mercier, Chantecaille, Cargo and Lauder bases.
MAC reinvented their Face and Body makeup, since I did LOST–which I used plentifully there! I like it even more now. It goes on fast, evenly, with less transference. They really improved it’s staying power, and there’s alot of rolling in the hay to be done on Anger Management! So low transference is essential. F&B is a product I have had in my kit since it’s inception, and it is an ever present staple for my work.
I love a good concealer and used a wide array! YSL Touch Eclats, Laura Mercier Secret Camoflage and Brightening powder!, LaMer concealers, L’oreal MagicLumi pen, Cargo Jet Lag, Clinique Line Smoothing concealors,their airbrush, and the Kevin Aucoin’s that frankly are so densely pigmented that a touch goes a long way, so a pot of it will probably last ages! Its great for really dark blue circles, but needs to be used judiciously or will truly look like spackel. Tip for the readers: Less is more.
For blushes, I love a cream blush like Julie Hewett Cheekies, Elizabeth Arden’s
Ceramide Cream Blush in Honey, Estée Lauder’s new powder blushes love the Rose! Benefit Dallas, Mac sheer powder blushes, Nars The Multiple in G-Spot , Portofino, Malibu, Orgasm (G spot being my latest favorite of the iconic line) Cargo bronzers and blush especially the HydraBronze and Catalina blush, Stila powder blushes and their Convertible Color cremes.
Loose Powders in Makeup Forever HD, Jurlique Silk lavendar or rose, pressed Chanel powders and their Poudre Douce Peche, Mac Blot Powders, Cargo BluRay mattifier, Becca mattifier, Origins Zero Oil and always-blot papers/film.
As for eyes–Really worked it with Chanel’s Eclosion quad the deep burgundy with the peachtone is gorgeous, Chanel’s Tiger Lily, Rose de Mai, with Estee Lauder Provocative Plum -contrast really pops the eyes! Don’t be afraid to go outside the box of ‘plummy with pink’ try it with peach-orange (Tiger Lily is a tangerine!) Bobbi Brown, Stila..Kitten of course!, loads of Mac, Estee Lauder Pure Color compacts: Desert Heat and Surreal Skies–we sometimes use the center color wet as a liner. I regularly use Lauder’s Lavish Mink–it is currently my favorite deep rich brown, and Dior Dior Dior.
Liners: Bobbi’s gel liner in Caviar Ink–a dark graybrown not quite black, so beautiful, that’s another favorite and very wearable for real life ( as opposed to TV show life!) Violet Ink, MAC Fluidline Blacktrack. Plus Benefit BadGal black pencil, L’oreal Kohl Eyes black, Nars Larger Than Life longwear eyeliner pencil in Appian Way. Estee Lauder ColorStay pencils-Midnight (deep blue that just pops eyes, and makes whites look clearer done on the inner lower rim) for instance, I used their black, bronze pencils with the Chanel Eclosion quad shadows. Sephora’s waterproof pencil–I wish they made this formula in a skinnier pencil..hello Sephora! They stay on and wear beautifully. Really fond of the bronze, purple and black. Shiseido Inoui liner pen from Japan. I am all about eyeliner that stays put!
Did you ask about mascara? So glad you did -we all love it, right? Dior’s new Diorshow New Look is currently high on my list, it defines, lengthens and fills out, Cargo Lash Activator, Lancome Definicils, L’Oreal Voluminous, ShuUemura,Cover Girl, Clinique’s newer bottom lash formula are some of the favorites. Benefit discontinued their SheLac sealer which has been a staple. I am an avid fan and have tried to buy up all that I have found out there! It keeps mascara ON through everything I’ve ever seen, and after holding up through the trials and tribulations of LOST, it has a highly regarded place in my arsenal. I use it daily on set. I mourn its discontinuance.
Lips: my personal latest must have is Chanel’s long last lipcolor line called: Rouge Double Intensity.
I find the Rose Topaz is quite the Universal color, and not only does the stuff stay on, it is comfortable to wear all day, I just love it. I use it personally as I am busy on set and often neglect to keep my own lips touched up. With this-hours of no worry and never has that weird feel. (anyone who’s tried a longwear and not liked it knows what I mean!)
On the show, we used Chanel, YSL, Dior, Lancome, Armani, Stila lip glaze, Lauder, lots of Clinique’s new Chubby Sticks. Talk about happiness. Just brings a smile to say Chubby Stick and they feel so good on, great sheer wearable colors, its a brilliant product. Lots of Cliniques new ‘Honeys’ in the Almost lipstick formula..started with the Black Honey and everyone seemed to have a different preference of those colors..Sephora glosses, Lauder Glosses, cargo glosses, Dior Addict, L’oreal Infallible lip,Bobbi, Chantecaille, Nars, even Bonne Belle Lipsmacker in Dr Pepper (gives just the slightest rose tint to lips while having a bit of Dr Pepper taste) Burts Bees balms (colorless and tinted) and one of my all time heroes- Chapstick moisture balm with the Blue label.
Clearly, I love makeup, even though I wear so little personally! As a painter, palettes of paint /colors just excite and inspire me. I am always looking for new ways to use products that are innovative and creative!
Benedetta’s ‘The Best Deodorant’, it -as well as all of their products-is made with completely organic ingredients, farm sourced–all natural-truly-and the best part is, it really works. I went to beauty school with Julia Faller, the founder-owner-creator-of Benedetta, who always spoke of doing a line of totally organic, aromatherapeutic skincare back in the 80’s when no one thought all that much about it. A real vanguard and totally cool woman-we’re still friends. She introduced me to her line just before we began Anger Management, and sent a bunch of product to Hawaii when I was there. The deodorant has stood the tropics test and passed! You can even spray it on clothes, gets rid of any odors and doesn’t wreck the fabric. How utterly cool is that? She’s just amazing.
We also used their Crystal Radiance Elixir Sprays in Ylang Ylang and Neroli. Hydrates, good to freshen up skin when you feel tired or add a glow toward the end of the day, it can be sprayed on the face even with make up (judge how far to get the spray misting and not in your eye makeup). On clean skin, it helps create a fresh look, and rehydrates-like after being in the sun. Just waking up. And they smell divine.
Thanks, Emily! I’ll be watching on the 28th! BBJ readers, have you used any of Emily’s go-tos?
I am SO excited to share with you the rest of my interview with LOST Makeup Department Supervisor, Emily Katz! Emily is truly one of the sweetest, most genuine people I’ve dealt with in the industry and she provided me (and you!) with some fantastic information about how she gets the ladies (and men!) of LOST ready for their respective close-ups. How does she deal with creating natural-looking makeup that doesn’t run in the hot Hawaii clime? What products does she use when shooting in HD? Read on and find out!
Beauty Blogging Junkie: Can you tell me a bit about your background and how you ended up working as a makeup artist for LOST?
Emily Katz: My work began as a fine artist, and I am a watercolorist to this day. I also sculpt. To encapsulate a very long tale: I modeled in the haute couture world of runway, and was recognized in that realm as I was executing makeup. Fashion led to movies and television, and ultimately to LOST. I’ve been doing movie/television makeup for over 20 years! I also have my esthetician and esthetician instructor licenses. I am medical level although I do not practice actively in that field; I just get to invoke my expertise in skin onto the makeup world that I inhabit.
BBJ: I read that you love Benefit’s She Laq ($30, pictured, left), and I do, too! What other products do you recommend for natural looks that still look gorgeous onscreen?
EK: SheLaq is a absolute must have. It just rocks. Period! Benefit also makes a terrific sheer foundation called Some Kind-A Gorgeous ($28) that comes in Deep and Light, which I use on a couple of the lead women solely. And on a lot of guest stars. It is ever-so-natural and light as a feather.
BBJ: What are your top tips for applying natural-looking makeup?
EK: Funnily enough, we use a lot of Chapstick ($2) on set: the Vanilla Mint, the Moisturizing, the Cherry, the Strawberry… everyone has a different favorite! There are a couple other lip balms we throw in the mix: Neutrogena ($7) and Blistex Complete Moisture. The balms we use provide the right amount of mattification without looking ridiculous. We also use Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1 ($7), Smith’s Rosebud Salve ($6), B. Kamins Lip SPF 20 ($19), and Shiseido Protective Lip Conditioner. The cardinal rule: if it’s shiny, it’s not used for the “island look,” as we call it.
BBJ: How do you do a nude/natural lip that still doesn’t look washed-out on-screen?
EK: We use A LOT of the aforementioned Chapstick. That’s pretty much it unless one of the ladies is freezing and I balance her lipcolor with CHANEL Precision Lip Definer in Natural ($28), which is about as nude as it gets! Stila also has a great pencil that reads as very natural.
BBJ: What new products have you added to your arsenal to accommodate for blu_ray/high definition TVs?
EK: We don’t shoot in HD, so I address our work as filmic. HD essentially magnifies four times more than our eyes naturally see and the reflective sheen under the skin is enhanced. I found a couple of products that translate well into real life from that experience. Frankly, it was requiring a much heavy hand in some areas than I gravitate toward. But when I do work with HD, I like to use Make Up For Ever HD Powder ($30). It’s fantastic, sheer, can you build on it without it getting cakey. One thing about HD, makeup and powder build-up looks really awful. I also like Jurlique Rose Silk Powder ($36) for setting the makeup for most of the women on the show. I use RCMA No Color Powder ($8) to set the actresses who have allergies to scent, (Jurlique’s fragrances are all natural, it is a gorgeous product, and, as all their products are, green!) and for the guys that I do.
Another trick is to use blotting papers before touch-up powder. I do this on LOST for the clean glow that I favor. It works for real life too, as it diminishes shine and reduces amount of powder needed. If you want a velvety matte finish, the powder after the blot.
For on-set touch-ups, I use CHANEL Pressed Powder ($43) or MAC Blot Powders ($21). I found in true HD, however, the CHANEL and MACweren’t dense enough. CARGO makes a great HD Blush/Highlighter ($27). It can be too light for many as just blush, but it offers a beautiful color on top of a cream blush.
BBJ: What is the greatest challenge you’ve faced thus far working on the show?
EK: One of the greatest challenges I’ve faced on the show is the actual environment we work in. We sometimes have to sit in the jungle in the rain or damp humidity for several hours and all the cast have to keep their “look” consistent throughout some rather long shooting days. In addition, most of the women are actually quite pale, and it’s a challenge to “keep their levels up,” as we say on the show, so as not to break the consistency and ‘reality’ we’ve created so there’s no false note to any viewer’s eye. With the heat, humidity, bug spray, sweat spray (water) and sunscreens repeatedly sprayed on top of and under the makeup, it’s been challenging to find something to stay on with durability throughout the day, look great, and not send the actresses’ skin to the moon with irritation.That’sone of the reasons SheLaq has become one of my best friends and is now an ABSOLUTE! I no longer deal with running mascara.
But with all the environmental/situational challenges, I really enjoy the cast, who have got to be collectively, some of the most wonderful people I’ve worked with thus far in my career, particularly as a unit. The work is an adventure too, as I get to execute beauty and distressed looks which all have to be totally believable and seamless. There is no opportunity for our work to look false at any moment. I work hand-in-hand with my colleagues who help create some of the most fantastically brilliant work on television.
Though the climate presents challenges, I do love being in Hawaii. Even if the day is seeming crummy, one look out at the ocean at the turtles and whales, and well, it becomes a grand day after all! The people of Hawaii have been the most gracious hosts to us, and it is an experience I will treasure my entire life.
BBJ: Can you give me a run-down of your most-used products on-set other than any you’ve already mentioned.
EK: Here’s a list of my favorite items to use on-set:
LaMer the Concentrate ($350)
L’Oreal Voluminous Mascara Waterproof ($7)
Estee Lauder Illusionist Waterproof Mascara: it’s discontinued, but I love it!
Clarins Eye Balm ($48): We call it ‘the de-poufer’ cause it REALLY works and doesn’t irritate eyes, nor is it blue or tinted! I carry it in my purse always.
Clinique Line Smoothing Concealer ($14, pictured above)
Jurlique Sun Lotion SPF 30+ ($58)
Jan Marini Sunscreen ($50)
Stila Rouge Pots ($20)
MAC Moistureblend SPF 15 ($29)
Make Up For Ever Face and Body Makeup ($38)
Pevonia Evolution Eyecream ($60)
La Roche-Posay Eye Gel ($27)
Anthelios Sunscreens ($30)
Julie Hewett Lipsticks: especially in Nude Noir– Julie Hewett’s reds are to die for as well.
Actifirm’s Hot Stop After Sun Flame Quencher ($38): This stuff has mitigated sunburns that were furious. Their product line is pretty incredible and the After Sun is more than anything I ever expected. It rocks.THANK you to Emily for providing such thorough, thoughtful answers to my questions! Check out her work when you watch the LOST season 5 premiere TOMORROW, January 21st at 8pm. The phenom Jeff Jensen has alluded in EW to the fact that there will be much time travel involved in this season. I couldn’t be more into it if I TRIED.
Hey my geequals! SPESH post today. My gal Emily Katz, Makeup Department Supervisor for LOST (and my favorite makeup artist to interview–and I’m not just saying that because we probably are related if you trace our heritage back to the shtetl) generously provided yours truly with some MORE answers to all my burning LOST beauty questions, specifically geared toward the makeup of Season 6. Ready to find out? Read on, Losties!
Beauty Blogging Junkie: What are your favorite products you used in season 6?
Emily Katz: OK I’ve got a dozen of them…literally. Although some of these are by no means the newest products on the market, I seem to be utilizing some of them more this season, others are just such standards we use them every day. So far:
BBJ: Did you mirror the makeup used in Season 1 in the flash-sideways/alternate world shown in Season 6?
EK: We mirrored it as closely as possible, keeping in mind that the actors look a bit different than Season 1. I came on board in Season 3, so using continuity shots from Season 1 was essential, and also relying on the actresses’ incredible memories for what comprised their looks really helped.
BBJ: What are your latest favorite sunscreens? Lip balms? Any indigenous Hawaii products you’ve fallen in love with during your sojourn there?
EK: Regarding Hawaiian products–Island Essence lotions–I love them, but don’t use for the show due to the scents (i.e., the bugs go into a feeding frenzy). My faves are the Mango-Coconut and White Ginger scents. The lotion is absolutely natural, no parabens and feels exquisite.
I’ve just discovered my latest favorite extremely high SPF screen: Neutrogena Age Shield SPF 90 (and 70). It goes on sheer and does not give the whitish cast like so many of the higher numbered screens. It’s lightweight, doesn’t have that “icky” cloying feeling especially in the humidity and it WORKS, Neutrogena Sheer Touch in SPFs that range from 30-55, Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF 30 (we LOVE the smell, too), Jurlique Sun Lotion spf 30, Clinique Body SPF 50 and Face SPF 50, Clinique Spray pump SPF 30, Aveeno spray and Neutrogena sprays in SPF 50-70, Banana Boat Active Sport Spray SPF 30 (we fondly call it “the orange bottle”).
For lips, I love B. Kamins Bio Maple Lip Balm SPF 20, still love Chapstick–the moisturizing kind with the blue label has been very popular this season, the classic black kind and whatever version anyone prefers. I find the blue label moisturizing one to have a nice slip, and not the old fashioned waxy heavy texture. In this climate, it seems that the tube style lip balms hold on better than ones in a little pot. It’s also easy for an actor/actress to pop it in their pocket if they are a distance away from the makeup artists on set for the scene so it makes life easier for everyone. And in the heat, there’s less melting into a liquid that can drip somewhere we don’t want it to.
BBJ: We certainly wouldn’t want that. Do you have any beauty rituals you yourself indulge in over there?
EK: Oh yes! I love skincare! Daily, I use Jan Marini’s Bio Glycolic cleanser alternating with La Mer’s Cleansing Gel, Jurlique’s Cleansing Foam or Cetaphil, after that–a brand new La Mer product: The Regenerating Serum ( not launched yet) and for day: Sunscreen, Lately I’ve been using PCA’s SPF 30 face and body. It’s not too whitish, doesn’t make me break out and isn’t oily, Jan Marini’s sunscreen (above) or for heavy sun exposure the Neutrogena Age Shield. I’m finally getting a Clarisonic. I even have the NuSkin ‘lifting’ device ! Eye cream is usually B.Kamins or La Mer Eye Concentrate day and night.
For nighttime instead of sunscreen, I use La Mer Moisturizing Gel Cream, B.Kamins Revitalizing Booster Concentrate or Cetaphil lotion, depending on location/climate. And I use Jan Marini’s Transformation or Pevonia Botanica Ligne soin o2tinal Creams alternately as well. Jan Marini Lash Eyelash Conditioner is also a staple (it WORKS to grow lashes and doesn’t burn my eyelids!!!!)
I indulge in a weekly peel with Actifirm’s Z-peel, and masque with B.Kamins Bio-Maple Booster Blue Masque .I did mention I love skincare, right? [I feel that, Emily! It seems we not only have the same name, but the same skincare obseshes.]
For makeup I’m much more minimal! Cargo Bronzer powder, DuWop Doubleglow Cheek Cream, Clinique Quickliner Eyeliner, quick swipe of eyeshadow, lipstick.
If I need a base I use La Mer The SPF 18 Fluid Tint (yeah, big fan of La Mer), for more polish or dressing up I add Cargo’s Lash Activator Mascara (helps grow lashes!) with Benefit SheLac, Chanel Poudre Douce powder and Julie Hewett’s Bud of Rose blush. That’s it.
BBJ: What’s different about the makeup/products you use this season compared to last (if there is any difference)?
EK: There hasn’t been a wide variance from previous seasons to now. We incorporate new products as they come along if they perform as well or better than what we’ve been using. This really has been a laboratory for product efficacy.
BBJ: What is your favorite thing about working on LOST this season?
EK: Some of the new characters, so many of the “old” characters are back–it provides a sense of camaraderie, sort of like a “Band of Brothers” feel… we’ve been through an amazing experience/ride! I’ve been privileged to work with some amazing, talented people on this adventure! And a big shout-out to an amazing team of makeup artists that have contributed their talents to this show. Some really great folks!
BBJ: Aw, it sounds like a closely-knit group you guys have over there! What is most challenging?
EK: The episodes are like a movie… each one… so there’s a phenomenal amount of work in a prescribed limited amount of time.
BBJ: What’s next for you?
EK: I’m in a definitive shift to broader arenas in the cosmetics industry. Part of my vision is to be the personal makeup artist for someone with whom I have a flowing, instrinsic rapport so we can truly enjoy one another while doing some amazing work. We spend a lot of lengthy, concentrated time with people on set; I truly want to be in league with someone I am aligned with on many levels. Another focus is moving forward to other arenas. Most specifically: Working with a major brand cosmetics/skincare company as a spokesperson/celebrity artist. Perhaps even assisting in developing new products and training that are needed and wanted in the marketplace on a worldwide basis. I would love to do teaching seminars internationally. Currently working on a product project (not a cosmetic or skincare product per se) that I am very excited about. It is relevant to my industry, so I’m looking to the day when I can present that. I will let you know when it is ready to introduce to the world! I’d also like to work with women to demystify the makeup process. It is also my wish to help broaden the definition of beauty by empowering women to eschew media ideals/creations of what is beautiful or perfect, of what is perceived to be the “norm” and to authentically express their beauty. That is my heart’s desire. I would love to do so internationally, and be very well remunerated!
I look forward to hearing more about your projects, Emily! You know I’m on a need-to-know basis when you do… pretty much anything. And I think you’d make an excellent spokesperson or product developer. Your wealth of knowledge of this industry is astounding. A humongo thank you to Emily for always answering my many emails while she’s busy working on-set! I, along with America, am very curious when it comes to LOST–but I feel I can address at least some of burning LOST questions (for instance, Emily provided a definite answer that Richard Alpert is NOT rocking guyliner) as they relate to makeup. And that, friends, is half the battle.
(That was me simulating the epic crash sound that happens at the end of each episode).